Aruba’s desert is a desolate place, filled with all the stuff you expect to find in deserts – cactuses, arid land, mysterious culverts that hold water, plants that have adapted to the lack of water, and critters that call the desert home.
One evening, we were sitting on the cottage porch reading when, suddenly, in my peripheral vision, I saw what looked like a small hawk hovering just above the fence of the house next door. But it looked too small to be a hawk and by the time I stood for a closer look, it had flown off and alighted on a cactus on the other side of the road.
The next day, we drove to some of the tourist spots – a donkey rescue farm, a place called Casibari where gigantic stones (origin unknown) create a mysterious park, and an ostrich farm. The farm has 28 ostriches that are like pets for the people who own the place. They supposedly aren’t killed for their meat or oil, but are primarily a tourist attraction. While we were sitting there, a young woman held a bird on her arm. It was a sparrow hawk, chewing away at a piece of ostrich meat.I realized this was the species of bird I had seen that night on the porch.
Megan asked if she could hold it and the bird climbed onto her hand, the bit of meat still in its claws. Rob and I both petted it and the sparrow hawk didn’t flinch or try to bite us.
“Is it a pet?” I asked.
“No, not really,” the young woman said. “It just likes people.” She flashed a quick smile. “And it likes the meat.”
After awhile, the sparrow hawk flew off. It obviously wasn’t a pet in the traditional sense. But the young woman said it would return at dusk, for another piece of meat. What I found curious about this encounter is that the sparrow hawk reflects the people of Aruba.
In esoteric terms, the hawk symbolizes the search for a higher truth and broader perspective, the sparrow is about creativity. Starting in 1953, the island began to sculpt its image as a tourist destination. It capitalized on its strengths – fantastic beaches, the intriguing desert geography, and its location in the Caribbean, a spot outside the hurricane belt. Over the years, the idea of Aruba as “one happy island” took root in the collective consciousness of its people. As one local gentleman put it, “The island is too small to hold grudges.”
Aruba covers 70 square miles, is about 20 miles long and and six miles wide. Four languages are taught in schools – Dutch, English, Spanish, and a local dialect, Papiamento. But Chinese is also spoken here. Most of the supermarkets are owned and run by the Chinese.
There are luxury resorts – the Marriot, the Hyatt – but there are also smaller, family-owned places like the Boardwalk and the North Shore Cottage where we stayed. These places cater to windsurfers, kite boarders, sun worshippers, and tourists seeking respite, fun, and the silence that only deserts and exquisite beaches can provide. Here, you can parasail, skydive, go tubing, horseback ride through the desert and along the beaches. Or you can float in the swimming pool of one of the luxury hotels and sip Margaritas until dawn. You name the activity, someone will provide it.
The people of Aruba are as adaptable and independent as that sparrow hawk that perched on Megan’s hand, allowed us to pet it, photograph it, and then flew off into the afternoon light, following the lure of the wild, its bit of meat still clutched in its claws.
– Trish
This post is a bit lighter than the oil one. Yet, one darker note: The people of Aruba are also worried about the oil spill, hoping it doesn’t come their way. So far they are well out of the range of the spill.
– Rob
















