Homes on stilts – known as palofitos
On March 3, we posted Part 1 of the Caleuche story – the ghost ship that allegedly sails the waters around Chiloe, an island off the coast of Chile. So let’s pick up with the abduction phenomenon associated with the crew of the ghost ship.
One morning in 1935, when Juan Antonio Fernandez was 16, he left his home at dawn to go fishing. He recalls that he arrived at a small hill that overlooked the beach and heard a strange noise, like motors. Two days later, his family found him wandering aimlessly on the beach.
“I had a terrible scar on my chest, shaped like a gigantic hand with long, narrow fingers,” Fernandez said. “It didn’t hurt and the strange part was that it looked as if it were old.”
Author Cardenas Tabies spoke with Fernandez’s family, who said he was never quite the same after his disappearance. He was difficult, assaulted people without provocation and spoke and worked only when he was in the mood. Cardenas coaxed Fernandez into showing him his scar. “I have never seen anything like it,” Cardenas said. “The hand covered almost his entire chest, like a scar from a severe burn. When I questioned him about it, he said that if he revealed the secret he would die.”
Armando Pacheco, a journalist and writer in Valparaiso on the Chilean mainland, theorizes that the legend of the Caleuche is so deeply ingrained that the islanders are predisposed to sightings. He contends that the Caleuche is an archetype of the collective mind of the islanders, “given reality through their intense and prolonged belief in it.”
The belief in the ghost ship is so deep that the islanders take special care with aquatic birds and animals for fear that one of them might be a brujo – a sorcerer – from the ghost ship in an altered form. “The legend,” wrote Tabies in Aboard the Caleuche, “states that if any harm comes to a crew member while he is transformed, the guilty party will be killed or abducted and condemned to sail the seas forever as a galley slave.”
One night in march 1976, a farmer in Chauques heard a cry that awakened him, a “kind of bleating,” that seemed to be coming from under his house. He got his dogs and woke up the mai and they went down to investigate. “It was a wolf, trapped between some mudwall panels.” The farmer quickly unfastened three of the panels and the wolf scampered out into the darkness and toward the sea. “I have never before seen a wolf in these parts. I have no doubt the animal was a mariner from the Caleuche.”
We visited the National Museum in Ancud, which at that time was a rather humble building that housed a small, straw-woven sailing vessel, representing the Caleuche. It rested in the center of a table of the main room. Surrounding it were an assortment of straw creatures – wood nymphs, sea monsters, trolls, mermaids and brujos, all symbolizing the island’s mythological inhabitants. Uribe Velazque, who at that time was the museum’s director, said the ghost ship exists only in the fertile imaginations of the islanders, as part of their rich folkloric tradition.
In an article, she wrote: “What would Chiloe be without her Caleuche, her trolls and mermaids and sorcerers?” she asked. “I can’t imagine a night of the full moon without the sudden appearance of the illuminated ghost ship. I cannot conceive of a summer twilight when the profound silence is not broken by the Caleuche’s enchanted music.”
Tabies, though, firmly believes the Caleuche exists. He cites the words of Tim Dinsdale’s from Loch Ness Monster: “There are two types of mysteries: those which are accounts of experiences which have occurred and cannot be explained, and those born of the history of a people.” The Caleuche, says Tabies, is a mystery of both kinds.
We have more to tell about the Caleuche and the brujos on Chiloe, including a peculiar personal experience. But we’ll save that for a third and final segment.



















